It is also easier to launch the wheelie from standing up. Clutching is by far the best way to get wheelies up, regardless of whether the bike has enough power to power it up. While it does wear out clutch plates a little faster than normal, the difference is not significant. I also have never read about any major problems as the result of the extra tension on the drive train.
There are many advantages to clutching wheelies vs. This allows beginners to keep a wheelie up longer, with out being at the balance point. The launch is more predictable.
When powering a wheelie up, the front end comes up relatively slow. Then when the front end is about 3 feet off the ground, the front end jumps up very fast under full throttle, making for a scary and unpredictable launch. When clutching up wheelies right, the front jumps up close to the balance point.
From there you just play with the throttle to fine adjust the height. After a little practice, clutching becomes very predictable and not frightening at all. All of the pros that I know of clutch every wheelie. Method 1: First accelerate with the clutch engaged.
Then, with the throttle still opened, pull in the clutch with one finger, to the point where the clutch disengages. With the engine still under throttle, quickly let the clutch back out as the tach is rising.
Method 2: Close the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way, with one finger. Then twist the throttle and dump the clutch. When learning to clutch, only rev up the engine a little bit at first before letting out the clutch. This will give you the feel for clutching. Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point. If it comes up too far, gently push the rear brake to bring the bike back forward.
When clutching second and third gear wheelies, the bike may need extra help, depending on what bike it is. This is done by pushing down on the bike with your arms and legs at the same time you open the throttle, and then leaning back slightly when dropping the clutch.
I is not a good idea to pull on the bars. Pulling up on the bars may cause the wheelie to come up funny and wobble. Otherwise, shifting during wheelies is hard on the transmission. It is also hard on the fork seals if you miss a shift.
My advice is to learn to ride wheelies at a constant speed. Then there will be no need to shift. Sillyneck 2 posts. October 17, Wow, that's really cool, but did you take a wrong turn somewhere?
I clicked on this thread thinking I was going to get schooled on how to wheelie over logs and obstacles in the trail. October 18, I was never into wheelies till i got my CR, i'm not sure where it all happened, the bike just sort of, taught me!
Its just so easy to lift the front wheel.. When bringing down a wheelie, stay on the throttle until the front end is safely on the ground. If it is necessary to quickly bring down the front end, then close the throttle at first. Then as the front is coming down, open the throttle. In that way you will have a soft landing. Balancing front to back is controlled by using the throttle and rear brake.
It is a good idea to learn this on a quad, fiddy, or dirtbike first. If the wheelie is in front of the balance point, you must increase your speed to remain at that position. To get the wheelie back to the balance point, you must compensate with more throttle. This is the same, only in reverse, when the wheelie is behind the balance point. The balance point is the position of the bike in which it neither has to speed up or slow down to remain at the same position.
The height of the balance point is affected mainly by the speed of the wheelie. The faster the wheelie is, the lower the balance point. The balance point is also slightly affected by the weight distribution of the bike and the position of the rider.
The object of riding a balanced wheelie is to keep the bike as close as possible to the balance point. This is done by rolling on and off the throttle, and pushing the brake if needed. Balancing sided to side is done by adjusting your body position. It is a good idea to learn this on a dirtbike, bicycle, or fiddy first. When riding wheelies over about 20mph, the bike will balance itself for the most part.
It is the slow wheelies that you have to consciously balance side to side. The principle is pretty simple. Quickly lean the same direction as the bike is falling. For example, if the bike is starting to fall to the left, you would quickly lean to the left. This movement would twist the bike towards the left, thereby correcting it. To steer wheelies good, you need to either be at the balance point, or behind the balance point.
To steer wheelies which are over about 20mph, you simply slowly lean in the direction you want to turn.
However, to turn slow wheelies, you must first make the bike lean in the direction which you want to turn. For example, if you want to turn to the right, first, slowly lean to the right. This will cause the bike to start to fall to the right. Then, instead of completely correcting the lean, you keep the bike leaning at that angle. This will cause the bike to turn to the right.
Wheelies are slowed down by riding the wheelie behind the balance point. This is one of the hardest parts of learning to wheelie, not because of skill, but because of the balls required. To learn how to use the rear brake, you basically need to grow some balls, bring the wheelie up behind the balance point, and tap the brake.
Soon this process will become second nature. To slow a wheelie down, you must give the bike enough throttle to get the wheelie behind the balance point. Now if you get scared and push the rear break hard at this point, it will quickly bring the wheelie forward without slowing it down much. To slow it down, you must keep it behind the balance point by gently riding the brake.
To 12, you just do the same thing, only you get off the rear break enough to allow the bike to lean back on the tail. Unless you plan on parking a 12, make sure you get back on the brake before the wheelie slows down enough to stall the engine. After you get good at slowing down wheelies, then you should be able to ride slow wheelies out. First of all, turn up your idle. I do slow stuff with the idle at 3.
The high idle allows you to ride slow wheelies much smoother. Be careful, however, when first turning up the idle, because you will have to use the rear brake, when going slow, to keep from looping.
When riding slow wheelies with the idle high, with some practice, you should be able to ride the wheelie by using the brake, and only blipping the throttle if the wheelie starts to come down. Current Stock:. Quantity: Decrease Quantity: Increase Quantity:. Buy this product and earn STG cash. Our Customer Rewards Program leads the industry! Select Brands are excluded, please Click Here for more details. Shop all LSL.
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